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Glad someone else noticed!
To say someone else noticed is an understatement. Google "Skyfall Suit" and it will autofill "too small". It's probably the most well known sartorial feature of the movie.
Goes back to the doesn't fit look. Skinny look is fine, if not my personal choice. Not fitting not so much. If you go back up the thread I posted examples of form fitting tailoring that still fit.
Exactly. The 'fitted' look is fine but the SF suits look ill fitting, like they're not properly tailored.
Didn't know it was so widely recognised. I've had people on here tell me the suits look fine.
Totally agree about the colour as well. Have a loathing of light grey shiny suits - really nasty and cheap looking. Suits You, Sir!
doghouse and I appear to agree violently about the problem if not the solution.
The SF suits don't fit and the only suit fully shown for SP doesn't either.
This is for the simple reason that TF is an off the peg merchant who at best, will do some made to measure were he adjusts standard models to 'better' fit.
To the best of my knowledge, he partners with Zegna which means the quality of his cloths will be great but the fit will be what it is.
His latest designs are a rip off from Chittelborough & Morgan who's house style has its roots with Tommy Nutter, the famous '60s tailor. This is a great look but very difficult to pull off because it depends on very finite tailoring.This is what you would get if you had Joe Morgan cut you a suit. Charlie Watts is a big customer of his and always looks fantastic. Unfortunately, IVNSHO, the commercialisation of this look by TF is a sartorial disaster.
Personally, as I have said times many, I'd have Anderson & Sheppard do Craig's suits. I don't say this just because they are my tailor. I say it because their house style — the Anderson & Sheppard drape would suit Craig's physique perfectly and their understated cut is Bond personified.
What's more Getaflix is right, 'those shiny suits' are awful and better suited to a game show host or Ant & Dec. Definitely not 007!
Hot tip in the suit department — watch 'M', he's going to give Bond a run for his money.
Ralph Fiennes is a real clothes horse and Timothy Everest is bespoking his look.
I'm glad that you are happy with A&S, they have a huge loyal following here in the States and are first rate, but are probably the most singularly inappropriate Row tailor you could come up with for Bond, along with perhaps Steed who do generally the same thing as A&S.
Agree.
Rumpled sacks to a man!
Frankly Bond should be understated and elegant. Not garish and dandified.
There's a lot here, so this might take a minute to unwind. Firstly, naming names doesn't really mean anything when it comes to aesthetic value of cut and silhouette. A&S is rumpled, that is their milieu and always has been, just look at HRH. It plays well with Yanks because of its similarity to the old Brooks No.1. Fantastic quality though they had a little dark period with a few less than optimal garments that made it out the door, plus we need to see where they go with Hitchcock retiring. I'm sure they will be fine though and on a workmanship level as good as anyone anywhere.
Secondly, all of those people are customers elsewhere, most at many of the houses. Cary Grant was mainly a Kilgour customer and they cut the suit for North by Northwest that everyone thinks of when they think Cary Grant. Fred Astaire quite a good customer too, though a lot of his dancing ensemble was A&S for the very cut they have. Niven did Gieves as much as A&S. And again, not related to whether Bond should wear it.
Thirdly, no one is advocating dandyism for Bond. Though you put Bryan Ferry in your wish list, which insinuates you are ok with dandyism, giving your argument an air of contradiction. At various points you have labeled pieces of a stylist and understated outfit dandyish, farmer fran, and denim something or other. It boggles the mind, and must make it quite difficult to get dressed with only three or four acceptable clothing items to choose from! Pretty much every tailor on the Row can make an understated sharp cut that has zero to do with dandyism. This is another non starter of an argument.
At the end of the day, A&S have a very loose rumpled look which some love but is probably not appropriate for a cold killer like Bond. There needs to be more sharpness and edge to his cut.
This is a current shot of Hitchcock and the boys, and you can clearly see the looseness.
For a cleaner traditional SR cut, Patrick Grant from Norton shows a clean line and nice waist.
By the way, why is it that the only thing everyone ever talks about in this thread are the suits of Bond (probably the most boring aspect of the costume design of a Bond film)? Is really nobody interested in the costumes of other characters and *gasp* Bond's more casual clothes?
Looking forward to being back on the Row next week. Among a few other things, having a button one midnight blue velvet blazer done with peak lapels to use at cocktail parties and the like. Stoked!
Could you post a pic, once its finished? Sounds good.
A bit like this?
http://sassypriscilla.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341c504353ef01127905b5cb28a4-320wi
http://cdn.styleforum.net/6/69/350x700px-LL-69692526_ESQ-05-christoph-walz-mdn.jpeg
Certainly.
Haven't you already said that you don't care that much for suits or know much about them? Because you keep coming back to this point that Tom Ford did it, therefore it's correct. Tom Ford is a very famous designer, but he's not god. I'm sure he's aware of how a suit should fit, he just decided to make a fashion statement and make them a size small. And most people who know something about suits noticed and didn't like it.
This isn't about whether Bond changes with the times. Men today aren't all wearing too tight SF suits. Wearing normally fitting suits don't make Bond some antiquated dinosaur.
No, more of a regular jacket, with one button and made of velvet.
Like this Timothy Everest but in midnight and a blue/black paisley lining
Clearly ridiculous.
It's amazing how dated CR looks now. Of course if was 10 yrs ago, but still...
My wife actually did give me a pipe somewhat tongue in cheek a few years ago. I quite like it, I quit smoking cigarettes back when I was 19, so it's my only tobacco use.
Haha.
Correct, the polo is by Sunspel - they are absolutely brilliant and worth every penny.
As for the chinos, you are absolutely correct. Dunhill do one of the best tapered leg chinos they are a great width without descending into Pitti Uomo farce.
Chinos are Levis Sta press they were a limited run.
Where did that figure come from?
I wasn't suggesting they were Dunhill. Merely suggesting a suitable sartorial twin (Dunhill) for the Sunspel polo.